Homemade Seitan Cold Cut Banh Mi: Vegan Cha Lua Style

Short answer: Mix 180 g of vital wheat gluten with blended firm tofu, soy sauce, mushroom seasoning, pepper and a little oil, knead briefly, roll it into a tight log in foil (with banana leaf if you have it), and steam it for 60 minutes. Chill overnight, then slice it paper-thin and layer it into baguettes with pâté, mayo, pickles, cucumber and cilantro. You get about 600 g of cold cuts, enough for 8 sandwiches; this recipe assembles 4.

The most famous banh mi in Saigon is the bánh mì thịt nguội (cold cut banh mi), stacked with slices of chả lụa, the smooth, springy pork roll steamed in banana leaves. Vietnamese vegetarian kitchens have long made chả lụa chay (vegetarian pork roll) from tofu skin, wheat gluten or other plant proteins, and it is now common in vegan banh mi shops. This homemade version uses vital wheat gluten for structure and tofu for a softer, paler bite, steamed so the texture stays tender rather than chewy. It needs a night in the fridge, so start a day before you want to eat.

Ingredients for the seitan log

You will also need aluminum foil, kitchen string or rubber bands and a steamer large enough for a log about 25 cm (10 inches) long. A wok with a rack and lid works well.

Step-by-step: making the log

1. Blend the wet ingredients. Blend the tofu, water, soy sauce, mushroom seasoning, oil, sugar, pepper and garlic powder until completely smooth, about 30 seconds.
2. Mix the dry ingredients. In a large bowl, whisk the vital wheat gluten and chickpea flour together.
3. Combine. Pour the tofu mixture into the flour and stir with a spatula until a shaggy dough forms. Knead in the bowl for 1–2 minutes, just until it holds together and feels slightly elastic. Over-kneading makes the seitan rubbery, which is the opposite of what you want for cold cuts.
4. Rest. Cover and leave 10 minutes so the gluten relaxes and the dough is easier to shape.
5. Shape. Roll the dough into a log about 5–6 cm (2–2 1/2 inches) wide and 22–25 cm (9–10 inches) long. If using banana leaf, wipe it clean, soften it briefly over a gas flame or in hot water, wrap it around the log, then wrap the whole thing tightly in two layers of foil. Twist the ends like a candy wrapper.
6. Steam. Steam over simmering water for 60 minutes, turning the log over halfway. Top up the water as needed.
7. Cool and chill. Let the log cool in its wrapping for 30 minutes, then refrigerate overnight. Chilling firms the texture and makes thin slicing possible.

Why steam and not boil? Simmering seitan directly in liquid tends to give a spongy, porous texture, while a tight foil wrap and steam produce the dense, smooth, slightly springy bite of a deli slice. For the full comparison of cooking methods, see our plant-based fillings section.

Building the cold cut banh mi for 4

Slice about half the log (around 280 g) as thinly as you can with a sharp knife, 2–3 mm (1/8 inch). Thin slices layered several deep taste better than thick slabs, exactly like the pork original. For each sandwich you need roughly 70 g of slices, a good layer of vegan pâté or mushroom spread, a smear of vegan mayo, cucumber spears, a pinch of pickled carrot and daikon, cilantro, sliced chili and a few drops of soy sauce or seasoning sauce.

Re-crisp the baguettes at 200°C (400°F) for 5 minutes. Spread pâté on the bottom half and mayo on the top half, then layer in the cold cuts, overlapping them like shingles. Add cucumber, pickles, herbs and chili, drizzle with seasoning and close. The cold slices against warm, crackly bread is the point; do not heat the seitan. If you prefer, you can pan-sear a few slices for 30 seconds per side for a "grilled ham" version.

For a spread to go with it, our sauces and spreads section includes vegan pâté and mayo you can make while the log chills.

Slicing like a deli

The difference between a homemade cold cut that feels like a deli slice and one that feels like a chunk of bread dough is mostly in the knife work. Use the longest, sharpest knife you own, ideally a slicing knife or a freshly honed chef's knife, and cut in one long drawing motion rather than sawing back and forth. Work straight from the fridge, when the log is firmest. Aim for slices you can almost see light through at the edges. If you own a mandoline with a guard, the thinnest setting works on a well-chilled log, but go slowly.

Layer the slices into the sandwich slightly folded or ruffled rather than flat; this traps a little air, makes the filling look generous and gives a softer bite. In Saigon cold cut banh mi, several different meats are layered together, so for a fuller sandwich you can combine seitan slices with slices of fried tofu or a tofu-skin roll. Two textures in one sandwich make a surprisingly big difference.

Flavor variations

• Peppercorn roll: add 1 teaspoon coarsely cracked black peppercorns to the dough, a nod to the peppery chả lụa sold in Vietnamese markets.
• Pink "ham" color: add 1 teaspoon beet juice or 1/2 teaspoon beet powder to the wet ingredients for a rosy color.
• Five-spice roll: add 1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder and 1 teaspoon dark soy sauce for a warmer, darker roll that resembles chả quế (cinnamon pork roll).
• Smoky roll: add 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika and a few drops of liquid smoke; not Vietnamese, but popular in Western sandwiches.

Troubleshooting and storage

If the log is spongy or full of holes, it was not wrapped tightly enough or the dough was too wet; next time add 1–2 tablespoons more gluten and roll tighter. If it is rubbery and bouncy, you kneaded too long; mix only until combined. If it tastes bland, increase the mushroom seasoning and pepper; cold foods taste less salty than warm ones, so season the raw dough a little more boldly than seems right. If the slices crumble, chill longer before cutting, and use a long, very sharp knife.

Wrapped well, the seitan log keeps up to 5 days in the fridge. For longer storage, slice it, layer the slices between parchment, and freeze for up to 3 months; thaw in the fridge overnight. Our meal prep and storage pages cover packing banh mi for lunch without sogginess.

Nutrition and a gluten note

USDA FoodData Central lists vital wheat gluten at about 370 kcal and about 75 g protein per 100 g. Across the whole log, the gluten, tofu and chickpea flour supply roughly 170–180 g protein; divided across a cooked log of about 600 g, a 70 g serving of slices provides around 20 g protein. That makes seitan cold cuts one of the most protein-rich fillings you can use. It is, however, almost pure wheat gluten, so it is not suitable for anyone with coeliac disease, wheat allergy or gluten sensitivity. For a gluten-free cold cut, a pressed tofu-skin roll is a good alternative.

Sources

• USDA FoodData Central – fdc.nal.usda.gov (vital wheat gluten; tofu; bread, French or Vienna)
• Coeliac UK – coeliac.org.uk (gluten and coeliac disease information)
• Bánh Mì XANH – banhmixanh.com (Chả Lát Chay grain-based vegan cold cut banh mi, checked October 2026)

Frequently asked questions